The Artist Studio may have sounded too confusing for a restaurant so they settled on Atelier; which has the same meaning in French. After experiencing what’s going on in Elizabeth’s old space in Lincoln Square, the name turns out to be a perfect fit in either language.
Not yet one year old, Atelier gave Chicago’s food culture a little tremble when it received a Michelin star last November. Although critics have praised chef Hunter’s original approach to food, their comments haven’t always fully captured the breadth of vision that comes across in his complex, highly distinctive and wonderfully delicious dishes.
Even having been open since February of last year, by late December the service side of the restaurant still seemed to be growing into its own. Although it relaxes as the meal progresses, there’s a self-consciousness and a slightly awkward eagerness that peeks through the cordial greeting and the flawless service. On the night of our visit, the restaurant’s owner, Tim Lacey, performed many table side duties himself. Like any fine dining restaurant, a great deal of attention is given to every detail from the table aesthetic to the wine. Visual cues that express that care can be very small and, at Atelier, can be seen in the whimsical beauty of chopstick pillows or the leaf shaped handle of a golden spoon used to serve hummus. Usually understated and always well-executed, they add an air of relaxed refinement to a comfortable lightly adorned space. The kitchen is open and chef Hunter can easily be seen watching over it with a practiced eye. If you drink wine, opting to pair the restaurant’s selections with each course will offer new ways to appreciate what comes out of the chef’s imagination. That is particularly true here where the unexpected becomes the well-appreciated norm.
Hunter’s training and experience in vaunted restaurants; along with a daring curiosity has endowed him with the skill to express his rare culinary gifts. Probably the best thing about Atelier is the opportunity it offers for us to enjoy them. Menus are only provided after the meal is completed; leaving the waitstaff to describe each of the ten courses as they arrive at the table. Their descriptions are much more detailed than what’s provided on paper after dessert; giving you a stronger insight into the abounding creativity chef Hunter possesses. Packed with information, the descriptions can take a few minutes to relay. It’s through those exchanges that you can appreciate the chef’s sweeping knowledge of ingredients, flavors, and food textures from continents and local street corners. Servers also explain how frequently dishes change, based on the season and ingredient availability from the restaurant’s very select group of purveyors. Many dishes are so layered and intricate you’d assume weeks of development would be needed to compose them, not mere days. It’s that combination of pushing limits and embracing so many culinary influences that make Atelier feel like a discovery and Hunter’s creations works of art to the senses. The hot and sour soup becomes something distinct and assertive. A delectable trout schnitzel floats in a roe speckled pool and arrives accented with preserved lemons. A giant bison dumpling is so succulent you’d like at least a dozen more. The apple cider infused sorbet induces swoons. Sour cream ice cream accompanies cardamom laced sticky toffee pudding. Every dish is a composition of flavors that only an artist whose boldness borders on audacity could conceive. That they work so well is what’s astounding and why Michelin touched Atelier with its magic wand.
Atelier
4835 N. Western Avenue
Chicago, IL 60625
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