Eating Well in Mayberry

Something about the place seems unreal.  Too peaceful.  Too homogenous.  Too unspoiled.  All reasons why It generally rates as one of the most desirable places in the country to live.  And although you don’t see a lot of diversity on the surface of Madison, you can often find it in the food. 

Fairchild, a relative upstart at one year old, doesn’t distinguish itself by the origin of its food but by its quality.  There’s a little bit of a mismatch in the relaxed personality of its décor and the cool formality of the service.  Dark wood tables and chairs, a bare wooden floor that wears its age well and an ornate metal ceiling give Fairchild an air of history.  Two tops, that quickly fill up as the dinner hour grows, rule the roost.  Unless there was one hiding on the other side of the partition, ours was the only four seat table in the restaurant.   Lighting remains low throughout the evening which heightens the feel of intimacy.  But it also tends to leave your meal in shadow and obscures the presentation the food.  One enterprising table brought their own USB charged portable lamp to clear that hurdle, much to the envy of other diners.    

Although there are deviled eggs listed under snacks, and desserts often have a homespun ring with offerings like squash pie, the core menu aims much higher.  It’s not clear what makes one option a snack and another an appetizer, but the choices on either tend to be rarified finds.  Sweet petite oysters, beef tartare and grilled veal sweetbreads (organ meats) are all heady launching pads for a well curated eating adventure. It’s how seriously the kitchen approaches the dishes it offers that explains the sober intensity of the waitstaff.  That lean into excellence and flirtation with novelty spills over into their cocktail options where the Manhattans are stellar and the wine list solid.  Because of its reach, the staff wisely offers the option to taste the Root Beer Sazerac before you commit.  For those who like it bold, it’s a winner.

Expect finely plated meals of the familiar taken to new heights.  The red snapper, delicious, moist and filling; was joined by brandade, spinach and apple cider dashi.  Brandade is an emulsion and dashi is the base for soups.  Both are key to flavor and were wonderful additions; but they don’t provide substance.  Along with the spinach, that came in the form of two mashed potato puffs encased in a crisp fried shell.  One of them was topped with golden fish roe that lent the dish an air of the exotic and broadened its range of textures.

Similar touches showcasing how the restaurant handles thoughtful refinement were everywhere.  Locally sourced beets waltzed with dreamfarm goat cheese and small chunks of broccoli and cauliflower to add a little innovation to a classic.  Duxelle mushrooms and spinach played supporting roles to the New York strip; with the mushrooms very nearly overshadowing the outstanding main event.  A few of them were tucked away in their own flour pillow; adding a little mystery to their terrific flavor.   Small succulent cabbage dumplings, along with acorn squash and brussels sprouts added to the savory pleasure of the Seven Seeds chicken.  Along with these mainstays of the average American dining diet, Fairchild also features an admirable selection of pastas to broaden their appeal.  

At the height of the dinner service, the ratio of waitstaff to tables can feel strained.  Folks who guage quality of service by how quickly their plates are cleared might be a little disappointed when the restaurant’s at peak.  Better to take the opportunity to savor the company you’re with and admire how expertly chef owners Itaru Nagano and Andy Kroeger mesh their creativity and skill.  Heritage slips into the way both approach their craft.  Paramount though is how much they value quality products.  The combination of these two factors, along with years honing their skills in highly acclaimed restaurants across the country, explain the difficulty in locking down a reservation. 

Desserts tend to be seasonal.  An apple tart and ice cream, served in a ramekin, adhered to the restaurant’s goal of making sure satisfaction accompanies excellence.  The same could be said for its current chocolate offering. Because the pairing promised a novel flavor match; Fairchild’s  third option, squash pie with blackberry ice cream, triggered the curiosity levers.  Although more than palatable, the anticipated friendly flavor contrast never materialized.  Blackberry in ice cream form tends to be mild.  This squash pie, despite its pale color, did a spot-on impersonation of our most common squash, pumpkin.  Who’s going to cast hate on good pumpkin pie with ice cream?  In this case, disappointing was still delicious.

Bread service available on request.

Fairchild

2611 Monroe Street

Madison, WI    53711

Closed Monday & Tuesday

info@fairchildrestaurant.com