She may have been on the scene for what seems like a hot minute, but when it comes to accolades and awards, she’s getting the Taylor Swift treatment. A classically trained chef who never doubted her worth, even when she was making $12 an hour working down in the trenches at Spiaggia, Dominque Leach used that confidence to create what’s now being called the best barbeque in Chicago. After sitting down to what’s rolling out of her Pullman smokehouse on 111th, we understand why.
Chicago has exemplified the pinnacle of great BBQ practically since fire met smoke. And, as you’d expect, the emphasis has always been on the meat. Given the hard scrabble origins of barbeque traditions in the South, it’s no wonder that the focus initially was on inexpensive cuts of pork; specifically, pork ribs and what are essentially their leftovers, rib tips. Low and slow cooking and the creation of delectable sauces lacquered onto the meat at the end of the cooking process produced irresistible results and a culture that’s taken over a nation.
These days, meat options have expanded to include brisket, sausages, chicken and even seafood. Until very recently, BBQ joints were no frills operations that specialized in one thing, producing succulent renditions of the classic barbeque ideal. Sides were treated as non-consequential afterthoughts comprised of bland white bread or zombie French fries sprawled lifeless under a soggy blanket of barbeque sauce. Occasionally, a dollop of washed-out coleslaw might be nestled in the mix. One thing chef Leach has done is blast the mundanity of that paradigm into oblivion. She rejuvenates the concept of sides by introducing real options and endowing them with layers and layers of flavor. The fries are still around, but they’re crisp and dressed up in wonderful seasoning that stop just this side of bold. Her barbeque sauces boast a very intentional swag that elevates the flavor contours of whatever protein you choose and turns those fries into even more of a delight.
The quality of her sauces, one sweet, one spicy; may be the main reason not to ask that they be served on the side. Having them baked into meat accentuates how well they complement the main event.
Fresh off the heels of winning Food Network’s BBQ Brawl and triumphantly wearing her “Master of Que” crown, Leach is now getting the respect she’s long craved and well deserves. Much of it comes from the depth of care she invests in her product.
Served with a cabbage slaw and mango salsa, the grilled jerk shrimp explodes with deliciously complex excitement. The slaw and salsa smooth out the frenzied dance of flavors of a dish that will become an instant favorite at first bite. Indisputably salty, you may have to limit your intake. Skipping it entirely though will only lead to regret.
Soulful sides are many, reasonably priced and delightful. As the very best of them, the candied yams lean sweeter than expected but are still a knockout. The brisket baked beans, collard greens and gouda mac and cheese are all just as reliably the soulful expressions of a skilled culinary artist.
Dessert proved the biggest surprise. Banana pudding is the standard offering but wasn’t available on a recent Friday afternoon. Learning that the “complimentary” $6.00 alternate dessert was peach cobbler, it sounded like the perfect way to wrap up a barbeque feast and toast the end of summer. To call the cobbler transcendent sounds excessive; but in truth, it’s the only word that does it justice. Magnificently nuanced, the much loved southern staple was the type of triumph that catches you completely off guard and makes you eager to experience it again….and again. For an accomplished home cook, it would express the pinnacle of their skills. Any five star restaurant would be proud to have it in their lineup. That chance encounter with an incredible cobbler provided final proof that Lexington Betty Smokehouse masters much much more than what comes off chef Leach’s magic grill.
Lexington Betty Smokehouse
756 E. 111th Street
Sunday 12 – 6PM
Monday Closed
Tues – Sat 11AM – 7PM