There are all kinds of exaggerations and this is one of them, Clark St. between Grand and Hubbard looks like a land mass under siege. Closed off by wooden barriers, with a long line of cars hugging the left lane curb from Dearborn along Grand glowing in each others alert lights; it takes a minute to figure out what’s going on in the two-block stretch. Telltale white tents sweep down both sides of the sidewalks. This is what the restaurant scene can look like in a pandemic.
It’s warm for a mid-November early evening but still chilly and the atmosphere is almost feverish walking through the barricaded landscape to pick up dinner at Frontera Grill. Phase 3 has been reinstated and dine-in is no longer possible. There are plenty of folks though, mostly couples and mostly younger; holding down tables inside the tents along the sidewalk. Many have on coats and jackets, a few don’t and you wonder why people are moved to rough it for the sake of an evening meal.
But sometimes you just have to give in to your cravings. For some it’s dining out, for others it’s just a taste for Mexican. Good Mexican food. Where you are in the city makes a big difference in its availability and quality. Clark Street in the northerly regions may be heavily Latino and loaded with taquerias, but none of them are notable or rise to the status of 5 Rabanitos in Pilsen. You’re going to have to travel to get quality ingredients and expert preparation; making a quick shot down Lake Shore Drive both reasonable and simple.
Rick Bayless’s reputation for culinary integrity is only gaining strength when you see how he’s addressing our current crisis. One that’s turning into a catastrophe for the restaurant industry. Creating high value, reasonably priced food is something he believes in and his to go only Taco Feast for Four at his flagship restaurant testifies to his commitment to providing a satisfying restaurant experience.
Four meats are featured with the meal, wood grilled Creekstone steak, premium chicken breast, locally sourced pork loin and pork carnitas along with just about everything else you need to eat a sumptuous Mexican meal. House made tortillas, excellent guacamole, creamy black beans, grilled knob onions, Gulf style rice pilaf and two decent salsas are thrown in to make the whole affair bountiful. Other sides are available for an additional charge.
It’s not until you get home and start pulling food from brown bags that you begin to appreciate the thought and care that went into conceiving and constructing this hefty spread. The meats looked splendid and ample. Nothing appeared as if more might be needed to satisfy four mature appetites. Instructions state that you should microwave the meats at 50% power for a minute or two depending on how long your commute home is and when you’re planning to eat. Even though the sheet didn’t say it, it’s always better to reheat beans on the stovetop with a few drops of liquid to keep them loose. By the time everything was plated and assembled on the table, a sense of celebration took over and had you thinking about raising a glass of some kind of joy juice to toast the moment.
On the tongue, everything was even better than it looked. Tender and moist pork, crisply charred but ever succulent steak and flavorful chicken waited heaped on a serving platter surrounded with all kinds of things to conquer the most discriminating palette. Tortillas are small and almost as light and delicate as crepes. You’re not going to overfill them the way you might at Chipotle’s. But their texture and flavor proved ideal complements to the whole array of choices. With a swoosh of salsa down the center of the taco and you felt as if you were transported to the land of mariachis and tequila.
Ordering a side of the tortilla soup ($16) would be a well made decision. Unusual for its dark smoky color and textural lightness, you’ll marvel at the complexity and depth of its rich flavors. Joined with a healthy mound of thin tortilla strips and white cheese and spices, the soup couldn’t be more delicious. Its portion size could even be considered enough for two.
For $70 or $17.50 a head, this feast has to count as one of the best deals in town.
Frontera Grill
445 N. Clark St.
Chicago, IL 60654
www.rickbayless.com/restaurants/frontera-grill/
