Was eating out ever just utilitarian? Something you do to satisfy your hunger and nothing else? If those days ever existed, they’ve gone the way of the brick sized cell phone. Eating out is doing something adventurous, satisfying a curiosity, indulging a craving, commemorating something special or succumbing to a guilty pleasure (Crisp). We dine out to be stimulated as much as to fulfill a basic need. Eating out is also a landscape where second chances can pay big dividends.
Following the noise coming from a chorus of both local and national publications about Hyde Park’s Virtue restaurant on 53rd St. and capturing a hip top near the bar after finally walking in one early winter evening felt like win. The dining room was open but booked for the whole night; making that high top even more prized. But then the ceaseless wait began; followed by exasperation and a premature departure. Deciding not to blame the restaurant for a rogue waiter, a reservation was placed for the main dining room several weeks later. That decision kept spinning gold when we landed in the restaurant for the redo.
53rd St. has turned into something that would be comfortable in Brooklyn or the new gentrified Harlem. It’s got the look and feel of a certain kind of urbanity. Not too polished and not too slick; with enough rough edges to keep things interesting and distinctive. Virtue fits very comfortably in this milieu and attracts a highly-varied mix that enjoys a little refinement, a little pampering that comes with attentive execution and the kind of urbane spirit anyone can appreciate.
Improved, the bar experience showed no sign of the renegade waiter but still displayed the same openness and easiness that filled the room the first time around. Not at all anemic or lackluster, its take on a Manhattan turned out to be bold and interesting. Not a pinnacle cocktail but certainly very respectable one.
Service had done an about face; making the main dining room experience exceptional; if safe. Most queries were answered with detectable caution. But always with an engaged awareness and knowledge. An unexpected chance to share a moment with the chef had its own rewards as he explained how he knew full well expectations he labored under were different. Higher. Which is why he places such a premium on the quality of his diners’ service. With his standing as one of the country’s premier Black chefs and stellar reputation that follows him from MK, he’s already more than proven himself. For chef Williams, Virtue is in a sense a chance to give tribute to the person who inspired him, his grandmother. The person who instilled the joy of serving people excellent food.
Leaning over a little conspiratorially, the woman at the next table wondered if she could ask a question. “Are the pictures you’re taking going to end up in a review?” We both laughed at the reply. She went on to say she and her husband were in town from Virginia visiting a hospitalized relative. A host at her hotel recommended Virtue to them. “My family’s from North Carolina and we know soul food. This is clean soul food.” That it is. Grander, finer, and more exalted, too. A mac and cheese with truffles kind of world; which was wonderful. She seemed more than pleased with her collards and smoked turkey. Her husband quickly chimed in his enthusiastic approval of his beef short ribs with crushed potato and creamed spinach.
Very pleased overall, there were still a few bumps at our table. The gizzards with dirty rice and gravy would have cleared the moon if the gizzards hadn’t been over salted. On the flip side, the dirty rice sang arias of delight with their wonderful depth and tiers of flavor. Reserved and rather humble, the gumbo could have used a little shake up; a kiss of zest to lift it to gumbo excellence. And a little beyond the typical scope of many restaurants focusing on southern food, but very fresh and creative, the squash with coconut, pecans and a light orange vinaigrette stood out as a great balancer and a hint of the innovative wonders dwelling on the other side of chef Williams’ culinary brain.
The gizzards soon got whisked away, were replaced and chef Williams dropped by again to check in. His concern for our satisfaction was genuine and he clearly placed a high value on honest feedback. Judging from the blissful comments filtering in from surrounding tables and the all of the contented faces relishing his food, the house was full of customers thoroughly enjoying their time at his warm oasis of a restaurant. Much of that satisfaction may be due to how well the chef listened and responded to meaningful feedback in the past.
Oddly, the charm of Virtue is embodied in its plates. They’re beautiful throwbacks to a time and place when hospitality and good food in a southern context were a way of life. The warmth of that hospitality poured as much from the diverse clientele as it did from the restaurant staff. It’s not terribly difficult to find dining spots that are welcoming and warm, but it is very rare to find them filled with the spectrum of humanity that expresses the richness of the city. For the food and for the vibe, Virtue excels.
Virtue
1462 E. 53rd St.
Chicago, IL 60615
773-947-8831
Open Wed – Sunday
Dinner only except Sunday
virtuerestaurant.com
