Evanston Ramen Hero: Table to Stix

Why ramen?  It’s just broth, noodles and toppings, so what’s the fuss?  Fortunately, more of us are discovering the irresistible appeal of one of Japan’s most generous gifts to the world.

There are lots of reasons why one of Japan’s most popular soul food/fast food wonders is gaining in popularity.  The main one is taste.  Ramen, when prepared with skill and knowledge is not only delicious, it is wondrously gratifying.  And it possesses that elusive fifth flavor known as umami that adds a unique savory richness to a dish.  Serious home cooks as well as chefs crave to capture umami magic in their meals.

At Table to Stix, a young restaurant on Evanston’s Davis St., the chefs have learned the art of consistently filling bowl after bowl day, after day, with ramen’s satisfying perfection. That steadfastness has earned them an appreciative and loyal following in their spare, modern and hip little outpost across from Bennison’s bakery.

Seriously good ramen is all about the broth and that’s certainly true at Table to Stix. Other actors in the bowl are plenty important, but without a sensational broth, the meal can easily be an also ran.  Like most traditional ramen establishments, there are three key broth types you’ll find described on the menu; shoyu, shio and miso.  They’ll provide the flavor base for your protein choice; pork, chicken or prawns.   You can also go strictly veg.

Some broths like shio are lighter in color and saltier.  Others like the miso powered broths can be much bolder and deeply complex.  With its incredible depth and engrossing levels of flavor, Table to Stix’s Spicy Miso ramen knocks robust out of the park.  Toppings on a broth this spirited should arrive with their own strong appeal.  In the spicy miso, each one is an unqualified star.  Brussel sprouts are halved and charred just enough for them to release their sweetness and add a bit of dryness to their texture.  Sweet corn is genuinely sweet and plump and join scallions, thick succulent discs of pork belly, dry chili strings and of course the requisite boiled egg; also halved and cooked just to the point of setting.  They’re all nestled in their own little neighborhoods on top of the bowl of ramen. At the bottom, another savory delight, wonderfully seasoned spicy ground beef. 

Ramen, when you consider how filling and nutritious it is, makes a perfect go to in the dead of winter when you looking to turn up your body’s thermostat as well as be filled.  And winter’s when you can expect the longest waits for a table.  But even at the height of summer, there’s still something enticing about feasting on these heaping bowls of plenty.  You can always go a little less heavy and opt for the shoyu prawn ramen.  Its base is lighter and less intense allowing the tenderness of tempura prawns to shine through along with the bok choy, scallions, naruto fish cakes and wood ear mushrooms. 

Or you can skip ramen all together.  With the restaurant’s variety of small bites and buns, it’s easy to slay the hunger dragon with a medley of straightforward, well prepared and tasty down menu options.  The bulgogi pork buns are beautifully done.  Marinated, thinly sliced and filled with their own umami splendor, they have the fan base to prove their appeal.  If you’re pork or meat averse, the pork belly can be swapped out for crispy chicken or deep fried potato and vegetable croquettes called korokke.  For many the two cloud-soft buns filled with any of these choices could function as a satisfying meal.  But stopping there wouldn’t be advised. Better to balance the meal out with a seaweed salad whose sweetness and brightness make a great counterpoint to fried foods or the richness of pork.  Spicy edamame would work just as well.  Suck the tangy coating from the pods before breaking them open to free fat green pearls of perfectly al dente edamame inside.  Ramen toppings come as sides too so enjoy the Brussel sprouts or sweet corn on their own stage.  The chicken karaage (fried chicken) comes to the table with a baby of a bowl filled with a jazzed-up mayo/aioli that has the color of turmeric and only the slightest hint of heat.

The restaurant’s owners opened Table to Stix hoping to capitalize on their proximity to Northwestern University and the ravenous throngs studying there.  That objective explains the many high topped tables with backless stools. The style also fits the traditional ramen shop aesthetic.  Perfectly comfortable to most, they may prove challenging for others.  Fortunately, there are a few tables of standard height scattered around the space. 

Price points are reasonable enough to fall within even a student’s budget and service hovers between sufficiently courteous and attentive to very attentive and friendly.  And servers always make a special effort to greet every customer with a hello and leave them with an amicable goodbye. 

Table to Stix

1007 Davis St.

Evanston, IL  60201

847-859-6847

www.tabletostix.com