At seven years old this coming December, Goosefoot; that oasis of fine dining on Lawrence Avenue, has the feel of a well established and confident veteran. The spirit and energy driving the restaurant remains unchanged. Thanks to the combined vision of super chef Chris Nugent and his imminently versatile wife, Nina; the restaurant continues to bewitch. The imagination that’s so beautifully evident in the kitchen and in the dining room’s sly take on elegance are a reflection of two highly creative minds.
The immediate sense of serenity and peace when you enter the small foyer also remains a constant. There may be minor tweaks, usually in the center of the room where a visual homage to the legacy of the Beatles is often found. Currently the theme encompasses Woodstock with a forest of miniature multi-colored trees covering one table with a gorgeous continually changing blue sky projected above them. The concept couldn’t be more enchanting.
Other little changes make themselves evident. Like the employment of a helper in the front of the house. She didn’t introduce herself and we didn’t ask, but she assisted in greeting, seating and serving. Not only her accent but also her demeanor strongly suggested a European approach where deference and efficiency are highly prized attributes.
If there is anything that acts as Goosefoot’s muse, other than an understated and refined sense of beauty, it would be music. The couple’s Beatles affinity doesn’t restrict their musical taste. The voice of Nina Simone can still be heard over the low hum of dinner chatter. Easily accessible jazz and standards from other genres also softly flow from speakers to reveal sophisticated and nuanced musical perceptions.
One surprise, a streamlined menu, serves three purposes. Nugent hasn’t had to prove his pedigree since setting Les Nomades on its ear a decade ago. Now he seems to be challenging himself, flexing his culinary muscles to both excite and delight. Rightfully known for the ethereal perfection of his soups, his usual tact is to focus on the continuity of the soup’s harmony with every spoonful celebrating flawlessness of flavor. Never overpowering, his soups always seem to maintain incredible balance and absolute purity. Now, to add substance to the course, he’s sunken a bounty of treasures into the intoxicating broth and calls it big easy pumpkin soup. With pheasant and crab; and using smoked paprika and espelette, a Mexican herb, as flavor enchanters; the dish is a stunning love child of New Orleans and Paris. To add mystery and adventure to the experience, Nugent hides this wonder under a light and delicious cloud of sculpted foam. The change in approach helps reduce the number of entrée’s, lowers the prix fix price and expands the chef’s repetorie. Everybody wins.
Another very welcome change in the way things are done was found in Nina’s pasta; a veritable staple on Goosefoot’s menu. Recruiting both parmasean and pecorino in its base, the final profile can be quite strong; even bracing. Nugent’s shaved off the sharp edges making the final product a more rounded and appreciably smoother.
Everything else remains consistently wonderful. The fall angus beef is decadently succulent recalling the beautiful richness of duck. A recurring suite of diver scallop, lemongrass, coconut and lobster was so good it was humbling.
One thing that sometimes goes under appreciated because it is such a constant is the celebrated Goosefoot chocolate bar. It’s not unusual for chefs, like any artist, to be multi-talented. But it’s not often they’re also accomplished chocolatiers. Nugent’s perennial little chocolate bar encased in gold and stamped with what appears to be Mayan hieroglyphic symbols are show stoppers to the eye and for the tongue. According a Tribune piece more than a decade ago, a good chocolatier must possess mental and physical robustness, exercise Zen like focus, and be immune to both pressure and the psychological toll relentless repetition exacts. The bar’s bottom layer of contrasting flavors and the high quality of the chocolate’s preparation prove that Nugent has checked all of the requisite boxes.
In a business that can be brutally unsparing, it’s gratifying to see a restaurant of Goosefoot’s stature, caliber and warmth continue to thrive.
Goosefoot
Avant-garde American Fare
2656 W. Lawrence Ave.
Chicago, IL 60625
773-942-7547
