Band of Bohemia – Paradise on Ravenswood

If there was ever a restaurant in Chicago achieving a perfect balance, it would be Band of Bohemia.  Nailing the basics with their exceptionally prepared dishes and sophisticated approach to a complete dining experience, they’ve moved on to conquer higher peaks.  Distinguishing itself by making food far better than most, the restaurant’s leadership has also built an alliance between the kitchen and the floor staff that compliments both.  It may be their success in doing so that explains their Michelin star.

In its neighborhood digs a little south of Lawrence on Ravenswood, the vibe is total chill.  After all, Band of Bohemia is technically a brew pub since they make their own beer.  And as such, you’d expect a certain non-chalance.  But most brew pubs don’t feature upholstered furniture, dense exotic curtains and custom cloth napkins.   And, because the restaurant also serves very high quality food along with their booze, they can just as accurately be termed a gastropub.  Since beer is their touchstone, every dish is composed to complement it. 

Comprised of three connecting spaces, the first two open to an expansive high ceilinged dining room that is overflowing with visual riches.  Fabric, metals and wood combine to make up a room that is inviting, comfortable and completely happy with its unorthodox good looks.  A large, long and welcoming bar acts as the bulwark for the large kitchen a distance behind it.  Attractive ambient lighting abounds and adds to the spaces warmth; encouraging both conversation and conviviality.

As good as the beer may be, it is only nominally the star.  Phenomenal attention is given to the food.  There’s also a gentle but determined emphasis on making sure you understand what you’ll be eating.  Everyone in the waitstaff seems to know the menu well and are able to talk about its nuances.  “Is the coconut broth with the halibut noticeably sweet?”  “No, not really.  You taste the coconut but it’s leavened with other spices that makes it an accent; not overly dominant.”  They could have gone on to say that the broth, painting the palette as it did with coconut and Asian flavors, was arrestingly delicious.  Chinese sausage, ramps and endive rounded out the plate and enhanced the halibut and its wonderful broth beautifully.

If you like texture and the way it can be used to playfully tease as well as satisfy, you’ll love the fried eggplant.  Word play is a popular sport in the restaurant business and Band of Bohemia has decided to theme their menu like symphonies.  Appetizers are prefaces and interludes are small plates.  The eggplant is a preface that has its true origins in Mexico because the naan plays the part of a tortilla.  Everything else is assembled in its circle with the eggplant leading.

It’s kind of remarkable because nothing is blanketing the radishes, chilies, eggplant or herbs to the point they are overwhelmed.  The aioli is a light connecting thread that pulls all of the components together and gives the freshness and textures of each of them a chance to shine.

Describing his food as progressive American, chef Ian Davis has played at the top of the food game in both London and New York before choosing to redirect his destiny to Chicago.  It’s difficult to fathom the depth of attention to detail needed to captain a starship like Band of Bohemia.  Davis credits mentor Matt Rudofker at New York’s Momofuku Saãm Bar for his zeal for detail.  It’s the detail that gets you closer to perfection and at Band of Bohemia you can taste it in every bite.  Without it the magic would completely disintegrate.

Some things are better not ordered if you lean toward the ravenous when you dine out.  A dish may be delectable, but it may not be substantial.  The lamb saddle is a good example.  A premium cut of the lamb’s flank, the actual amount of meat may be 4 ounces.  With just a sprinkling of fava beans, petite greens, lamb bacon and crisp polenta like fingers called panisse, it is an elfin portion even though it sits in the conclusion (entrée) section of the menu.    You definitely won’t walk away bloated and may be a little disappointed if one of your purposes was to leave with a topped-out tank.

Reimagined desserts are as interesting and delicious as any of the restaurant’s offering.  Some, like the wonderful milk chocolate crème brûlée with cashews, green tea sponge cake and yuzu sorbet are even head turners sitting in its glass terrarium bowl. And it tastes as beautiful as it looks.

Band of Bohemia

4710 N. Ravenswood

Chicago, IL  60640

773-271-4710

info@bandofbohemia.com

Closed Mondays

Tues – Sun  Dinner Only

Brunch  – Sat & Sun  10 – 2