What is flavor? When you stop in at Sunset Pho Caffe in the far reaches of upper Western, you’ll have no doubt why it rhymes with pleasure. For those of us who go through life in an endless quest for taste sensations both satisfying and sublime, finding eye fluttering surprises make our searches imminently worthwhile and this place seems loaded with them.
A serene little spot just below Peterson and directly across from the recently reinvigorated and revitalized West Ridge Nature Preserve, the restaurant’s proximity to green space helps soften Western’s intensity and gives it an air of quirky exclusivity.
For more people than you’d expect, pho (sounds like fun without the “n”) reigns supreme. A noodle soup that most commonly uses thin slivers of beef as the protein, pho can be made with any meat. And there’s a seafood version that incorporates shrimp, mussels and squid. As uninspiring as it may sound, the chicken version is a personal favorite and I’ve slurped it up in some of the most renowned pho palaces on Argyle. When done right, it elevates something humble into something grand. Star anise is the delicious floral accent in this broth that’s so delightful that you’d seriously consider changing your spoon out for a straw. The chicken version is served with a side plate generously piled with basil leaves, watercress and jalapeno pepper slices that are as fresh as they are plentiful. You can probably ask for more lime wedges. And there’s plenty of heat elements you can add on the table.
Thursday turned out to be a busy night. The bartender, in all black and sporting his own unique brand of suave, was also taking care of the patio tables out front. Inside, the room had that shiny penny look. Crisp, efficient, immaculate, comfortable, colorful; the walls carried images portraying the union of two worlds; one Slavic and one Asian. The chef, Ngoc Stakic, who hails from Viet Nam and her Croatian husband blend their two cultures in the kitchen too.
The convergence worked especially well in the spring roll appetizer that uses Cevapcici rather than the delicacy of shrimp inside the transparently thin won ton blankets. This little bit of rich decadence in the form of small pork sausages makes the party on your tongue
sparkle and is neither heavy or greasy.
Ultimately, the wonderful chicken pho and tasty fusion spring rolls proved to be no more than preludes to a fantastic finish. A well-placed question to my slightly harried wait person hit pay dirt. Before she recommended the spicy lemongrass noodle soup, she checked to make sure the “spicy” part wouldn’t be a problem. “Oh, no. Spicy is never dicey.” From the name, you had really no idea what to expect but the first thing that hits you when they set the bowl down were the delectable aromas rising from the bowl. It smelled intricately layered and irresistibly appealing. Diving in was even more wonderful. Slices of beef so thin you’d think they’d had been shaved with a mandolin floated in a broth the color of pale bronze and the flavors were as softly complex as they smelled. Chili flakes swam on the surface and an array of vegetables were placed alongside to gild the rose. Strands of red cabbage, slivers of onion, basil, watercress and cilantro could be dunked in, get a soak and add harmony to the excellent broth. Unlike the chicken pho that uses vermicelli noodles, the lemongrass soup used more toothsome noodles to accompany the beef. Some meals are so good they can instantly uplift your spirits and this one certainly ranks in that class.
It’s hard to think of a better place to take a big group of family or friends to enjoy delicious food in a relaxed and welcoming space. And you’d probably have just as much fun with a posse of one.
Sunset Pho Caffe
5726 N. Western Ave.
Chicago, IL
773-275-2327
Dinner Only
Opens at 4
