Beer people understand. A taproom that consistently delivers on great tasting beer is a treasure. One that also serves up serious eats on the side is just about priceless. Chicago’s blessed with a few such haunts and Half Acre’s Taproom on Lincoln right now has to rank as one of the best. With its total absence of fanfare on its street face, the taproom is as unassuming as park bench. But that usually changes to a substantial degree once you walk through the glass door. If it’s early afternoon, the place will probably be brimming with people. Standard tables line the front and north wall while the middle of the room is spaciously communal. Ledges with stools in the back and on the south wall comfortably accommodate a brew and a plate. Even with all that, there might be a line to get in during warm weather. Blessed with a two-fold draw, exceptional beer and good food, the room’s a hit.
Its roster board of a dozen or so beers will be home to at least four you’d find wonderfully delicious. Which makes it very easy to order flights. Two recent additions, Young Cobra, a subtly complex IPA and Bodega Nights, a beautifully balanced Schwarzbier, were particularly noteworthy on the last visit. It almost didn’t matter what I ordered for lunch.
The Lincoln Ave. location has had a thing with burritos for a while now. Their BBQ brisket burrito, once a doorbuster and now just a solid staple, remains popular. The surprise comes in the form of a buttermilk biscuit nestled in with the brisket, cheeses and fried onions. All burritos come with a side and can be served without the flour tortilla. The Pineapple Pork Fried Rice burrito was awesome enough without the wrap.
Innovation’s key to the taproom’s approach to food. Stepping out of convention and combining approachable but unexpected ingredients to add zing, they’ve found a winning zone. That’s why the brisket includes a biscuit, fried okra is slipped into the Shrimp Po’boy and why broccolini crashed the pineapple pork fried rice shindig. And they are all escorted by a pasta, vegetable or potato side. Overwhelmingly popular for good reason, the Chimichurri Red Potatoes can be seen riding shotgun on many tables.
The kitchen side of the taproom’s brain understands people want to be fed when they order a meal; not simply appeased. And any of the burritos will do that at a comfortable price, between $11 and $14. Just in case you’re not out to truly slay the hunger dragon, smaller plates include made-to-order chips, nachos, Korean short ribs and a number of vegan and vegetarian options.
Its quiet good looks add more than a little bit to the taproom’s appeal. Many breweries take that stark “it’s all about the beer” look too far. What’s wrong with a little color or the injection of a touch of adult friendly whimsy? The Lincoln Ave. taproom does all of that with a light hand and an astute eye to detail; making it welcoming to more types of people.
Half Acre Brewery Tap Room
4257 N. Lincoln Ave.
Chicago, IL 60618