The city of Chicago and the state of Wisconsin have a thing; and it’s mostly one way. Every summer the city looks lustfully north. Across the border are quaint and picturesque cottages lolling beside beautiful lakes surging with fish. There’s cheese. There’s excellent beer. And in the evening, there are supper clubs; those legendary havens of comfort food and camaraderie; also usually found next to a body of water.
Unlike the rest of town, residents of Lincolnwood know you don’t have to go to Wisconsin for a supper club immersion. Sitting majestically, sans water element, on Lincoln Ave., L. Woods Tap and Pine Lodge exudes all of the gastronomic and atmospheric charm of a class “A” Wisconsin supper club. Tons of wood, mounted fish, kitschy signs of natural wonders, spacious leather banquettes and a persistent air of carefree hospitality that never seems to leave the place. It’s a walk down memory lane with tasty benefits.
A Lettuce Entertain You restaurant that started out life as Bones got retouched by the magic Melman wand and emerged as a festive haunt of the North woods. Melman says he had to do something. Sales were declining at Bones and the clientele was aging. Every bona fide adult of any age loves supper clubs; even if they don’t know it.
Fried cheese curd appetizers? Check! Daily dinner specials? Check! (Pot roast Thursday, fried perch on Friday). Ribs? Uh huh. Walleye? Yep. Actually, the only thing you might miss if you really know your supper clubs is the relish tray. Everything else is searingly on point. Yes, there are antlers, too.
Generally folks rave about the food. They shouldn’t. The food is fine though with even salads, of all things, garnering high praise. And just about every night the fried calamari is light and delicious. That’s what’s particularly laudable about L. Woods; its consistency. The food rarely disappoints hugely.
That point does not extend to the cocktail menu. Only California consumes more brandy than Wisconsinites; and they have seven times the population. And they’re not nearly as reverential about their Old Fashions. Our northern neighbors harbor a keen fondness for Manhattans, too. Both the Wisconsin Old Fashion and the L. Woods Manhattan were about as sad as a scolded puppy and made you wish you had ordered a beer.
What didn’t disenchant was the re-creation of what is basically a national treasure. There’s something unusually unique about supper clubs. They’re what the American diner is in our psyche taken up a few notches: cocoons of peace, warmth and community. Who wouldn’t want to slide into a seat that offered so much and threw in a classic meal from the heartland.
L. Woods Tap and Pine Lodge
7110 N Lincoln Ave
Lincolnwood, IL 60712
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