Pizzeria Bebu in Lincoln Park has only been around since February but acts and slings pie like a seasoned champ.
Chef Jeff Lutzow, a Nico Osteria expat, has an exquisite gift for pairing the perfect toppings and placing them on the ideal dining vehicle; a thin crispy crust. Like everything, your own palette will determine which pie becomes your favorite; but universal standouts still take up a long list. For mild flavors and a tantalizing sense of the earth, the Funghi, with panna, wild forest mushrooms, roasted garlic, ricotta, pecorino and aged balsamic is a steadfast crowd pleaser. For bolder more assertive flavors, the sausage and broccoli rabe is as well balanced as it is robust. The same can be said for the Puttanesca that features anchovy, capers, olives, roasted garlic, Calabrian chili and parmesan.
Salads are so good you could even find yourself at a pizza joint and not eat pizza. The Little Gem with fava beans, English peas, pecorino, pistachio, and a Meyer lemon vinaigrette stunned us with its freshness and the delicate but quite discernible accents of the dressing. Equally impressive was the kale Caesar salad. Very simple with parmesan, breadcrumbs and a creamy anchovy vinaigrette, it could make a kale lover out of Fred Flintstone. If you’re eating light, both could be considered meals in and of themselves.
Rumor has it that Lutzow used to make pizzas for the staff on special occasions at Nico Osteria. They were so popular that he found a sponsor among the restaurant’s leadership. A toast to enlightened sponsorship.
Added bonus: they’ll gladly mix toppings on the same pizza. Heaven.
Pizzeria Bebu
1521 N. Fremont
(near North & Clybourn Red Line)
312-280-6000
