Could somebody tell me why ribs are so complicated? Why is something so primal held to such scrutiny? The most likely answer to both questions centers on the fact that there are few things that can top a fabulous slab of spare/baby back/St. Louis cut ribs or rib tips. Nothing is more closely tied to our time in the cave than meat on flame. To graduate to the point where that same meat is now incredibly tender and sheathed in a complex and delicious sauce moves us from the primitive to the gourmet.
Gale St. Inn, that stalwart on Milwaukee Ave. deserves the consistent accolades it gets for its take on this American essential. No, the sauce isn’t layer upon layer of palette mystery. Because Gale St. has perfected the art of succulent tenderness, the ribs themselves are the stars.
Walking in on my maiden visit, the lack of ornamentation was the most striking thing that stood out. We had a high noon lunch scheduled. I was early and when you enter the restaurant you’re essentially in the bar. Lots of guys had already gathered and clumped in groups. Their animation gave the space vibrancy.
Escorted to the seating area in the back, the same spare expression prevailed. It had that no frills we’re all about what we do feel. We feed people. Very orderly, clean, courteous.
That courtesy card was particularly well played. Our waiter, a young guy with an unusually earnest look about him, also turned out to be extraordinarily cordial when responding to questions and offering suggestions. Attentive, knowledgeable and willing to engage, his manner ratcheted up expectations for the food. When asked which he’d recommend, the jambalaya or the fettucine, he didn’t hesitate and pointed to the jambalaya with a genuine smile on his face. Done.
When friends I’ve not seen since the discovery of fire arrived, it was clear they’d eaten at Gale St. a million times plus. It’s smack dab in the middle of their hood. Staying mainstream, they didn’t order anything that stretched: potato skins (with cheese and bacon) for appetizers, medium burger and fries, Caesar salad w/ sirloin strips piled high. That’s kind of the thing about Gale St. It’s not a stretching place. It’s as straightforward as the neighborhood it’s in. Solid Midwestern fare that feeds a city with big shoulders. Gale Street Inn would be just as comfortable in Bridgeport or Beverly.
The jambalaya was better than expected. All of the essential flavors and heat were there for a traditional Cajun rendering. Yep. It would have been nice to have an even more genuine experience with the taste of celery and green pepper shining softly through the spices. And Gale Street uses just shrimp and andouille for protein; nixing the chicken. Still, the bottom line is that they hit the mark with a finality which made for a great meal. The medium burger clearly was that and that salad with the mound of beef was generous and fresh. Every face looked satisfied as we caught up and chowed down.
The ribs were a separate take home order and the verdict of the recipient diner was not kind. “I’ve had better.” Perhaps, but what you’re eating is very good. No, they are not smoked and have that incomparable essence of direct flame. But that lovely tenderness, where nicely seasoned flesh pulls easily from the bone and that bone remains moist deserves beau coup props.
Gale Street Inn
4914 N. Milwaukee Ave.
Chicago, IL 60630
773-725-1300
